Seafood Dives Along the Saltwater Edge of Carolina

Let's find a few no frills out of the way eateries.

Flowers Seafood, Edisto Island, SC Special thanks to Charleston artist Sandra Roper

Cruise north from Beaufort, SC, onto Hwy. 17, and you’ll soon be in God’s country, the ACE Basin.  Roll down the windows, have one arm on the wheel, sit up tall, and feel pretty darn cool. 

Sorry, folks. No honky tonk bars, hot dog stands, or neon lights out here in the Ace Basin

Once in the Ace Basin, we cross vast marshlands through palmetto-studded live oak hammocks and dark water cypress swamps, where the landscape breaks into open vistas and well-tended fields in the heart of plantation country. This is the land of forgotten places, country churches, roadside shacks, cinder block fish houses, and decades of tradition.

Back in the day, we had never heard of LED headlights or backup cameras, and our dashboard, well, I can testify there were no screens there and no digital anything. But we had whitewall tires and loved ‘em about as much as our flashy fins and shiny chrome. No one worried about only getting 10 miles to the gallon—that was fine with us. No air conditioning or turn signals—that’s okay, too.

About an hour up the road, pull off onto Hwy. 174 and head out to Edisto Island. Most of the land is a jungle of tangled oaks, magnolia trees, palmettos, and yuccas standing high above a woodland floor. Look for a cinderblock shack with a giant crab painted on the side, Flowers Seafood. Here, Vincent Flowers has been hauling in fresh seafood for generations. Be sure to pull over and order some garlic-steamed crab and eat at the picnic table out back. You’ll love it.

Before you get to Charleston, turn right into Folly Beach if you’re in the mood for a funky slice of the coast. You’ll find it there, no doubt about it. Folly is funky, hippie, and surfy, with a warm vibe and beautiful views. You may want to wander over to the Lost Dog Cafe - our furry friends are always welcome at this local hot spot.

Let’s next head to Bowens Island Restaurant, a defiantly gritty riverside joint a mere 8 miles and many worlds from downtown Charleston. Oysters are steamed in a kitchen that might remind you of a hobo’s canteen and served in metal buckets encrusted with pluff mud. Stop beside the fire pit to pick up a few. Pry ‘em open with a worn knife and a rag, then wash ‘em down with beer. That’s mighty high livin’.

To get there, stay on Folly Road going toward the beach. A sign for Bowens Seafood will be just a little beyond a sign that welcomes motorists to the “Edge of America.” This will take you onto a narrow, rutted dirt road across a large expanse of marshland. Bowens Island is not an island at all but rather the end of a desolate peninsula surrounded by the creeks and coastal marshes of the Lowcountry. Roll the windows down, catch the warm salty breezes, and turn all thoughts immediately to succulent oysters.

Known for its no-frills service, creek-side sunset views, and oyster room, where steaming oysters are shoveled directly from the fire pit onto rough wooden tables. The restaurant won the prestigious James Beard Foundation Award in 2006, named one of eight “American Classic Restaurants” that boast timeless appeal and quality food that reflects the history and character of its community. Owner Robert Barber accepted the award in New York City, wearing a tuxedo and white shrimping boots.

Charleston

Dave's Carry-Out is on Morris Street in Charleston, a laid-back fish shack where you want to be among the in-the-know locals.